Top 10 Cars – Best Residual Value

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Everyone wants to own a new car. But no one can deny just how quickly their value depreciates once you drive them out of the dealership… Some cars fare better than others. Here are the top 10 cars that depreciated the least in 2014, according to data provided by the NADA.
#10: Mazda6 – 70.6% resale value mazda The new Mazda6 is a fun-to-drive mid-size that looks great, runs efficiently and packs awesome features! Its resale value for 2014 is at 70.6% of its MSRP, which is a definite plus if you’re thinking about owning one. How does it compare?
  • Resale value is 12% better compared to outgoing model
  • Resale value is 10% higher compared to the mid-size sedan average

#9: Chevrolet SS – 71.6% resale value ss The SS is a large rear-wheel sporty sedan with a conservative style. It’s 6.2L V8 engine will give you aggressive performance with 425 HP. Its resale value for 2014 is 71.6% – a great number for this model’s first year on the market.
#8: GMC Sierra – 72.7% resale value sierra Three cars are tied with a resale value of 72.7%, and respectively go to 8th, 7th, and 6th place. The GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab SLE is GMC’s most purchased model. This vehicle is equipped with a 5.3L V8 for the whopping 355 HP and 383 lb-ft of torque. Additional features include 4-wheel drive, cylinder deactivation, direct injection and variable valve timing.
#7: Jeep Cherokee – 72.7% resale value cherokee The 2014 Jeep Cherokee doesn’t please everyone’s eye, but its modest 2.4L 4-wheel drive sport submodel is its most popular version. The Cherokee keeps a resale value of 72.7% of MSRP, beating the average compact crossover resale value with 3.9%.
#6: Mini Cooper – 72.7% resale value cooper The new Mini Cooper Hadrtop model is a little bigger and a little cheaper (its base price was reduced by $1,500). Its 3-cylinder turbocharged engine takes it to 6th place with a resale value of 72.7%, beating the average sport car resale value with close to 5%.
#5: Nissan Rogue – 73.1% resale value rogue This model blows competitor compact crossovers away thanks to its superior fuel economy and its great style. The versatile Rogue has a resale value of 73.1% of its MSRP.
#4: Toyota 4Runner – 77.1% resale value 4runner The extra-large and fuel-hungry Toyota 4Runner is far from going extinct. This SUV deserves its fan base – the vehicle has an aggressive appearance and is perfect for off-roading. The 4Runner takes 4th place with a resale value of 77.1%.
#3: Toyota Highlander – 78.8% resale value highlander The awesome new style of this crossover Toyota coupled with super cool new features like the Driver EasySpeak system slide the Highlander into third place. This model has a resale value of 78.8% of its MSRP.
#2: Subaru Forester – 81% resale value forester The 2014 Subaru Forester model features a useful rear-view camera, all-wheel driveability and the EyeSight safety suite. It deserves its 2nd place spot with an 81% resale value.
#1: Corvette Stingray – 84.7% resale value stingray No one would expect a sport car to take first place, but the Stingray is no ordinary car. It’s equipped with an aggressive 6.2L V8 for 450 HP and 450 lb-ft of torque. But what really makes this model popular is its Z51 performance package. The system delivers a magnetic ride control suspension setup which reacts to the terrain and driving conditions for a better driving experience. The Corvette Stingray wins 1st place with a resale value of 84.7%.
So is a new car a bad investment? Ultimately, the decision is yours.

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Brake Pads & Rotors: what do I need to know?

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Your vehicle’s brakes are the single most important safety feature you have on the road! Every time you stop in front of a stop sign, a red light, or in heavy traffic you entrust your life and the life of others to the proper function of your brakes. And while we don’t really consider what goes on in our car when we step on the brake pedal, understanding how this system works is vital to making smarter choices in maintaining and replacing your brake rotors and brake pads!
HOW DOES IT ALL WORK? header1 When you step down on your brake pedal, it in turn pushes down on a plunger. This plunger rams down into your vehicle’s master cylinder and forces out brake fluid. The fluid travels up the brake lines until it reaches the brake calipers. The calipers actually “crown” the top part of your brake rotors, and on the inside they are lined with the brake pads. So when the brake fluid flows into the calipers, they expand and push onto the brake pads. The brake pads in turn push down onto the rotors and stop the wheels from turning. …and your car halts! Your brake pads and rotors are so critical to your safety on the road that it doesn’t make sense to cut corners when you have to replace them. With TDot Performance you have a wide variety of high-performance choices. We carry pads and rotors from trusted and reputable brands like EBC Brakes, Brembo, Hawk Performance, Centric and more.
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DRILLED ROTORS Performance brake rotors are divided into two main types – drilled and slotted. Drilled rotors actually have small holes drilled into their bodies. This is done for a number of reasons: Dissipate Heat: Friction is created when the brake pad clamps down onto the rotor. The friction creates a lot of heat. And if that heat doesn’t escape it may cause brake fade and a reduction in stopping power. This is where the drilled holes come on – they take this heat away from the rotor surface. Gas Buildup: The materials which some of the older brake pads are made of create a gas buildup between the rotor and the pad. And this buildup reduces the friction between the two components and limits your overall stopping power. In this case, the drilled holes act as an escape route for the gas. Water Retention: There are countless ways in which your brake rotors can get wet, including rain, a carwash, or driving through a puddle. And when your rotor is wet, its surface becomes slippery and difficult to grip by the brake pad. Again, this is detrimental for your stopping power. The drilled holes actually lead water droplets away from the rotor surface to ensure it remains dry. The con of drilled rotors is that they are structurally weaker compared to other rotors. All the holes that do so much good for your braking power, can’t hold up to repeated stress in the long run and can even cause the rotor to crack. The bottom line: If you enjoy a moderate driving style, drilled rotors may be your go-to choice! Their drilled surface guarantees superior stopping power and resistance to brake fade. Drilled rotors are not engineered for performance driving. So if you enjoy aggressive horsepower, you need to be sure your brake rotors can handle the added stress!
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SLOTTED ROTORS Slotted brake rotors feature carved slots instead of drilled holes. The slots serve the same way as drilled holes – they dissipate heat, release gas buildup, and lead water droplets away from the rotor surface. Slotted rotors are a suitable choice for performance drivers because they are durable enough to take on the stress of repeatedly hard driving. But on the downside, they will easily and quickly wear down your vehicle’s brake pads. This is why most performance drivers choose drilled rotors. While slotted rotors are the go-to choice for the racetrack.
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2016 Honda Civic Patent Drawings LEAK

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We got our hands on these official patent drawings filed by Honda for both the 10th generation Civic Coupe and Sedan. The images show in great detail what the actual production models will look like! It turns out that the production of the Honda Civic Coupe will remain almost identical to the green Concept model which was debuted at the 2014 New York Auto Show. But what are the differences? It won’t be a shock to anyone that the bodywork was toned down. But the biggest difference is actually in the bumper design! Both front and rear bumpers of the basic model feature small and not very aggressive air vents and lines. What we suspect is that higher performance models of the Civic Coupe will be closer to the Concept’s bumpers. What you might be disappointed with is that the rear spoiler from the Concept is not on the drawings. But we have hope that it may be a factory option. The wheels and the side mirrors are smaller in reality, and the headlights are changed. From what we can tell, the LED daytime running light strips that extend the bottom of the headlights on the concept car might have been kept. The good news is that the wraparound tail lights, which are one of the coolest features of the concept, are staying! The Sedan will not be sporting those tail lights, but comes with 2 extra doors which is a bargain for some enthusiasts. comp-1 comp-2 comp-3 http://www.tdotperformance.ca/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/2016-civic-compare-4.jpg comp-5 Image Credit: Honda via CivicX.com

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How Far Can You Drive on Empty?

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Picture this: It’s the weekend and you’re driving around the city. Your gas light comes on. You’re out of fuel. What do you do? Do you swerve into the closest gas station to fill ‘er up? Or do you push your luck, blindly believing that there’s no way your car will die on you? Maybe you’re just that lucky. Maybe you’re a member with the CAA. But the question I want to ask you is this: How far you can really drive “on empty”? The boring answer would be a detailed explanation of the interplay between your vehicle’s year, make, model, weight, your driving style, and the terrain. But I’m not here to bore you! So let me give you this piece of advice: You need to figure it out the fun way! LOOK TO YOUR PEERS peers One fun way to figure out how far you can drive on empty is by visiting the site TankOnEmpty. It’s a place where drivers actually record how far they were able to drive their vehicles after the gas light came on. So find your make and model and see how you rank! Just don’t take these results to heart. Even for a specific vehicle with an extensive list of entries like the Honda Civic, the variations are staggering. You’ve guessed it – the findings are in no way scientific. But they’re still fun to look at. BE PHILOSOPHICAL thinking To fill or not to fill? I’m joking. I’ll leave Shakespeare references out of this. Another way to figure out how far you can drive on empty is by… figuring out how much fuel you have left in your tank! And most vehicles will signal that you’re out of gas when their fuel levels drop below 1/8 of the tank. So to calculate your range, you need to consider how heavy your vehicle is, factor in your estimate of the remaining fuel (1/8 of the tank), and then come up with a number out of thin air!
My range is…. 57km!
If you’re looking for a more reliable estimate, try this: When you’re gas light comes on, drive into the nearest gas station and fill up your tank all the way. Then compare how much fuel you filled up with your tank’s capacity. The difference between the two numbers is your secret driving-on-empty reserve. And if you repeat this process a few more times, you’ll have a very accurate estimate of what your actual range is on empty. DRIVE IT OUT stranded The best way to figure out how far your car can drive on empty is to see how far your car can drive on empty. So next time your gas light comes on, stay behind the wheel and drive until you’re truly left stranded somewhere. Then record that number and let me know what it is in the comments below!

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Car Repair Tips: Unlock a Power Door

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Don’t you just hate it when you lock your car doors… and it turns out that you’ve left your keys inside?! Check of these useful tips on how you can unlock your power door!

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How To Properly Break-In Your Engine

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We can all appreciate how important it is to properly break-in an engine. And you need to do it safely and effectively, by following very specific steps. If you’re not 100% sure what these steps are, or if you just want to confirm what you already know, check out our tips below. They were compiled with the help of engine experts to save you time, money, and ultimately – your engine! SAFETY COMES FIRST inspection Begin by inspecting all engine and drivetrain components. Make sure there is no damage to the distributor, spark plugs, the wiring or the carburetor. Make sure that all accessories like your headers, alternator, and the power steering pump are on tight. Remember that even your assembled engine can sustain damage during shipping and handling. So, check for leaks. And check your engine’s fluid levels. LUBRICATE YOU OIL FILTER oilfilter Before you install your oil filter, you need to fill it with oil. Fill it half way and properly lubricate the surrounding rubber gasket. Tighten it using your hands. Logically, you need to choose motor oil with a special engine break-in additive. My advice is to trust and use a premium brand for both the filter and the oil. If you choose to go down the cheaper route, it could cost you serious engine damage. PRIME THE OIL SYSTEM You really want to avoid a dry start-up. So disable your vehicle’s fuel system and crank engine to prime the oiling system. Use an engine priming tool or a pre-lubricant for the job. Do this even if your engine was already dyno-tested. Make sure your vehicle has a proper base tune. Otherwise, it could run too lean or too rich. CHOOSE CONVENTIONAL MINERAL OIL mineral-oil Use a mineral-based engine oil to break in your new engine. This will help your piston rings to seat. The “seating” is actually the proper match between the piston rings and the cylinder. If the rings don’t create a proper seal your engine will use excess oil, leading to a loss in compression. After the initial 6,000 km break-in you can switch to synthetic oil if you wish. PREP THE COOLING SYSTEM cooling-system Plan ahead for this one. Fill the cooling system with a 1:1 mix of water and a premium coolant. Do this a couple of hours before starting your engine. And leave the radiator cap off. This will get rid of trapped air inside the system. If you skip this step, you may notice extreme temp gauge readings once you start your engine. And you risk water pump cavitation. START YOUR ENGINE You can finally start your engine! Once you do, keep a very close eye on your oil pressure. If it’s lower than it should be, one of two things is possible: A. You haven’t primed your oil system properly B. Something is seriously wrong and it needs your immediate attention SET IGNITION TIMING ignition-timing The next step of the break-in process is to set the ignition timing. This will ensure you’re achieving the maximum cylinder pressure at the correct crankshaft position. You will need to experiment to arrive at an optimal timing. It should lie between 32 and 38 degrees before top dead center. BREAK IN YOUR CAMSHAFT Keep your engine running with no load between 2,000 RPM and 2,500 RPM for the first half hour. This will ensure both hydraulic flat tappet cams and roller cams are broken-in properly. FOLLOW A BREAK-IN PLAN break-in-plan Following a break-in plan will speed up the process and ensure all of your engine’s components are seated. Basically, you should be driving your engine’s first 300 km at varying speeds and loads. Engage in some full throttle runs from a rolling start. But remember to cool your engine after. If you want to follow a more detailed plan, try out this one: 1. Accelerate with medium throttle to 4,500 RPM four or five times. Slowly go down to 30 km/h. 2. Accelerate with hard throttle to 5,000 RPM twice. Slowly go down to 30 km/h. 3. Allow your engine to cool down. Change your oil and filter. Check your coolant levels. 4. Drive normally for the next 1,000 km, but keep your engine running below 5,000 RPM and avoid idle. CHANGE YOUR OIL When you’re dealing with a new engine, you need to change both your oil and filter frequently. You should change your oil at 100 km, 1,000 km, 2,500 km, and at 6,000 km (at which point it’s safe to make the switch to synthetic oil).

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8 Ways To Lower Your Car Insurance

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If you’re shopping around for a new insurance policy or if you want to improve your current rate… you are aware that certain factors which affect the bottom line are out of your hands. These factors include your age, gender, and your previous claims record. So let’s focus on what you CAN do to get a lower rate. Here are 8 factors which are 100% in your control. Address them, and I guarantee you will get the lowest possible rate on your insurance! #1 SHOP AROUND SHOPAROUND Different companies will offer you different policies at a different price. Don’t make a rushed commitment unless you want to pay double! Shop around to get a real sense of lower-priced policies. Many independent sites allow you to compare insurance rates throughout Canada. And they can be incredibly helpful. Just keep in mind that most of these sites earn a profit by charging a small commission on each sale. So contact your top company choices directly before signing anything! Kanetix – www.kanetix.ca This site will allow you to compare rates as well as to set up your coverage online. What I find convenient is the way they have broken up the rate requests for classic cars, commercial vehicles, RVs, and motorcycles. The interface is very simple and user-friendly. Insurance Hotline – www.insurancehotline.com The process this site will put you through is very similar to what you would experience with a broker. You’ll be asked a few basic questions before you’re shown relevant insurance quotes. What is annoying is that once you provide your e-mail address, you’re also asked for a phone number before you’re shown any quotes. And they only offer you “special discounts” over the phone, so you’ll end up dealing with a rep. Whether you use a site or not, remember to ask these important questions:
• What is the minimum coverage I am required to purchase by law? • Can you give me specific examples of a loss that would be paid under each coverage? • What would be covered under each optional coverage (Specified Perils, Comprehensive Perils, Collision Perils, and All Perils)? • Do I have the option to purchase “new for old” coverage and, if not, why not? • As an insurance professional, what coverage and limits would you recommend?
#2 OPT FOR HIGH DEDUCTIBLES DEDUCT The deductibles in your policy are what you’ll actually be asked to pay out of your own pocked in the case of damage.. before your insurance coverage kicks in. If you truly want a lower rate, opt for a higher deductible. This can lower your rate by up to 40%. And in the end it could actually make the most financial sense. Here’s how: Let’s assume your deductible is at $1,000. If your vehicle is vandalized and the damage is appraised at $6,500 you will have to pay the full deductible ($1,000) while your insurer makes up the difference ($5,500). Yes – that’s money that’s coming out of your pocket. But, if you save $200 on your monthly insurance rate because of the high deductible, you’re reaping in annual savings of $2,400. That means you’re ahead by $1,400 annually!
$2,400 annual rate savings – $1,000 deductible you have to pay = $1,400 total savings
..and that’s assuming you’re vehicle actually is vandalized! Going this route does mean that you’re facing more risk behind the wheel. BUT – you won’t be asked to pay deductibles for damage caused in a collision for which you are not found at fault. So, probably, you will save more money with a higher deductible. #3 SKIP UNNECESSARY COVERAGE ON OLDER VEHICLES If you’re driving an older vehicle which is covered by comprehensive or collision coverage you may actually be paying more for your insurance than your vehicle is worth! And here is a handy formula you can use to determine if you’re overpaying:
Comp & Collision Premium x 10 < Vehicle Value
In other words, your vehicle’s value should be at least 10 times higher than what you’re paying for comp and collision insurance monthly. And if you think that ditching the extra coverage leaves you overexposed, keep in mind that an average policyholder makes a claim only once in a decade! Chances are that your vehicle will be sold or will become completely depreciated before you ever need to make a claim. #4 CHECK YOUR CREDIT SCORE WALLET A raising trend in the industry is for insurance companies to use your credit score in their calculation of your rate. And the numbers are not pretty. If you have a bad credit score, you could be paying an additional 40% – 50% on top of what your rate would be otherwise. So pay your bills on time and make sure there’s nothing in your credit history that doesn’t belong there! #5 CHECK YOUR DRIVING RECORD MANUAL One of the biggest drivers behind a high insurance rate is your driving record. What better way to predict your future behaviour on the road than by checking your past behaviour on the road? Insurance companies will check for prior violations and accumulated demerit points when calculating your rate. If you’re considered a high-risk driver you’ll definitely be hit by a high insurance rate because you’re more likely to file a claim. The solution? It’s simple – sign up for a safe driving course or defensive driving course. These courses go by different names but they bring about the same result. Your demerit points will go down, and so will your insurance rate. You might even be eligible for additional discounts! #6 NEGOTIATE FOR DISCOUNTS NEGOTIATE There are many types of discounts that could lower your monthly insurance rate. So make sure you ask for them! Low-Mileage Discounts If you have a short commute to work, use a car pooling service, or don’t travel long distances with your car your annual mileage is probably lower than most! As a result many companies may offer you a discount. Group Insurance Discounts It is common practice for insurance companies to offer special discount for a variety of organizations, professions, or demographics. For example, if you’re a veteran, teacher, or work for a certain company you could be eligible for a lower rate! Other Discounts You can use a variety of reasons to ask for a lower rate! Maybe your vehicle is equipped with additional safety features like an anti-theft device or motorized seatbelts. Maybe you’re a senior. Maybe you’re a student and you’re high grades meet some type of requirement. But don’t be fooled! It is often the case that insurance companies who offer the most discounts actually charge the highest industry rates! #7 PAY IN FULL (IF YOU CAN) CHEQUE If you decide to pay your insurance bill in installments, you’ll be subjected to unnecessary admin fees. These fees are approximately $8 – $12 per installment, depending on the insurance company. You could be saving serious cash if you pay your insurance bill in full. #8 DON’T LAPSE WITH YOUR COVERAGE Affording a break in your insurance coverage will cost you! You would be giving your insurance company grounds for raising your premium. And it could disqualify you from certain discounts. Be smart and pay your coverage on time. And if you’re switching to a new carrier, make sure your old policy doesn’t expire prior to when your new policy takes effect! Let us know how you were able to lower your insurance rate in the comments below!

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Weird and Amazing!

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This looks weird and amazing at the same time!!! Where would you take it?

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LED vs. Halogen – which is better?

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Now is the time to check and address any damage your vehicle has sustained during the long and harsh winter months! And if you’ve already spring cleaned your car like a professional, you’re ready to perform some damage control. One aspect of car maintenance that is often overlooked is actually… the lights! car lightsUpgrading your vehicle’s lighting system is not just an optional luxury. Installing appropriate lighting and signaling devices for your own unique driving style and needs will truly take your driving experience to the next level! Which is why you’ve decided to invest in new automotive lights.. ..but which will it be: LED or Halogen? There are plenty of lighting options you can go for, ranging from off-road lights to simple driving lights. And to make the right choice, you need to decide what level of functionality you expect from your lighting system. LED LIGHTS img7 The main advantage of LED lights is their efficient energy consumption. These lights use up to 75% less energy in comparison to halogen lights. If halogen lights have around 6,000 hours of life in them, LED lights have close to 30,000 hours of life. That’s 5 times more! LED tail lights and headlights are also brighter. So you can be sure that the road ahead will be better illuminated. Their small size makes them versatile, which is why they are available in a variety of styles and designs.
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On the down side, LED technology is relatively new and it generates a lot of heat. This means your new LED lights will need more cooling power to run. And all of their perks are available at a much higher price tag. HALOGEN LIGHTS img8 The main advantage of halogen lights is their affordable price. If you’re on a budget and don’t want to spend a lot on a fancier replacement, the better option might be a standard halogen fog light or halogen bulb. Halogen lights will emit a bright, white light which is pleasing to the eye. And you can count on their solid performance on the road.
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On the down side, they waste a lot of energy to operate. And you need to handle them with caution. Their chemical makeup is very reactive and poisonous. THE BOTTOM LINE img9 Each type of light has its unique set of advantages and disadvantages. The best technology for you depends on your priorities and needs. My advice is, whatever you decide, opt for lighting products from trusted brands like Anzo, PIAA, and Putco. This way you can be sure your new lights will outshine and outlast the competition! And if you’re still not sure which light to choose, drop us a line in the comments! We would be happy to give you any additional information!

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12 Valve Cummins in a 66 Impala

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Yes! A 12 valve Cummins engine really is inside this 66 Impala frame! Would you take on a project like this?

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